Bali Diary, Part 6: Viceroy Bali

All the activities and golf-cart rides we enjoyed at Ayana and RIMBA were great, but I had been counting down until it was time to head north to Ubud. I was ready to shed resort life in favor of something more intimate. With its 25 villas tucked away on a hillside, staring into the tops of palm trees in Ubud’s Valley of the Kings, Viceroy Bali hit the spot.
Viceroy Bali via
Entering the Viceroy’s lobby was like walking into a wormhole to some glamorous era in the past. IMG_5073
Viceroy Bali via www.infinitelindsay.wordpress.comIMG_5075
I couldn’t get enough of the palm tree-covered hillside that faces the hotel. This is the Bali I’d been dreaming of. IMG_5078
Viceroy Bali via www.infinitelindsay.wordpress.comIMG_5085IMG_5086IMG_5087IMG_5088IMG_5092
I always get a little thrill opening the door to a hotel room for the first time. I can’t remember the little ritual ever making me want to cry, but that’s practically what happened here.
Viceroy Bali via IMG_5103 IMG_5104 IMG_5105 IMG_5106 IMG_5111 IMG_5112 IMG_5113
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Can you see what I mean? IMG_5123 P1000918 P1010019
Viceroy Bali via
I suppose there’s something a bit emotional about someone handing you the keys to a corner of paradise as special as this one and saying, “It’s yours to enjoy.” IMG_5098
This beautiful carved door on my patio connected my villa to the one next door, but since I didn’t know my neighbors it was just a piece of art to me. IMG_5127 IMG_5133 IMG_5137
I loved how the light on my patio changed throughout the day. I know this because I spent every hour of the day that I could in my plunge pool or reading in that little sala. IMG_5415 IMG_5416
Mornings were misty, and I loved sitting in my sala watching the mist burn off and the sky turn blue. IMG_5419 IMG_5428 IMG_5434 IMG_5437 IMG_5438 IMG_5443
Something about the depth of the valley mesmerized me. It felt mysterious and comforting all at once.  IMG_5445 IMG_5447 IMG_5449 IMG_5452 IMG_5454 IMG_5459 IMG_5463 IMG_5472 IMG_5475 P1000900 P1000907 P1000909 P1000913
As I mentioned in my previous post, tourists are confined to their hotels on Nyepi day. I read online somewhere that lots of tourists actually avoid visiting during Nyepi because they don’t want to be stuck in their rooms for a day of their stay. Crazy! Waking up at leisure, making a cup (or three) of espresso and sipping it in my sala as I tore through a suspenseful book, and feeling absolutely no pressure to be anywhere or do anything was the best use of a day in Bali that I could think of. It felt so restorative and it gave me time to sit and recall the incredible sites of Nyepi eve the day before.P1010012 P1010013 P1010014 P1010015 P1010016 P1010018
The most energy I had to muster on Nyepi day was dragging myself to the spa for an oxygen facial, then to CasCades for a ridiculously good lunch.
Viceroy Bali via
Here I sat with an iced ginger tea waiting for my spa treatment and feeling extremely grateful for my state of affairs.IMG_5480
After my facial, I wandered over to CasCades for lunch.
Viceroy Bali via
I don’t know what they put in this simple garden salad, but I had three while I was there. Crazy good.
Viceroy Bali via
Not to be outdone by this bowl of pillowy feta ravioli, smothered in green goodness—and edible flowers! P1010028
Viceroy Bali via
I ended my stay with a full belly and a singing soul. Suffice it to say, Viceroy Bali stole my heart.  FullSizeRender

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